![]() ![]() Give it a lick of paint and bobs your uncle. I did this during the evings after work in one week and was no great hassle. ![]() The working end to end methodicly swao everything that is differant on the mioni engine over to the metro engine. In all honesty the best thing to do is get bothe engines out and put them next to each other. I have been swapping her original (and knackered) 1275 lump for that of an MG metro lump. I have just been doing this almost exact same job to Kylie. THis is an easy five minute job and should just involve swapping the one on your 998 lump for the one on the metro lump. Horney wrote:You might well have to replace the clutch cover houseing (i think thats what it's called) as the Mini has a hydrolic clutch whereas most of the metros had a cable clutch. Philhill Posts: 367 Joined: Wed 8th Oct 2003, 11:17am Location: Lincolnshire, UK. Oh and fitting the HT leads 180 degrees out. ![]() The biggest problem I had on the first engine change I did was getting the drive-shaft nuts undone. Be carefull when refitting the drive shafts, the pot joints can tear the lip seal on the diff end covers which results in a persistant oil leak. ![]() You will need a cooper or GT radiator top bracket. If the motor has the "pointless" electronic dizzy then you need to add an ignition live to the electronic pack on the dizzy. There are people who can recalibrate your speedo (speedycables ?), or you could change the speedo drive gear on the back of the diff casing. The speedo calibration will probably be out as well, almost all metro 1300's had a 3.44 diff ratio where most mini's of your era had a 3.1 diff ratio. When refitting remember to re-connect the speedo drive before lowering the engine fully into place. First registered in February 1993, this GTi has been in the current local ownership for 10 years and has been maintained regardless of cost by the vendor. It will probably foul the mini fan, you can slip a spacer between the water-pump pulley and the fan to space it out a bit, and some people have "adjusted" the breather with a hammer, but best to use a mini one. Most sporting of the range was the GTi 16-valve, a car well capable of making the most of its lively free-revving engine. The breather on the timing chain cover is at an angle on the metro where the mini one is virticle. Once you have the Metro motor out of the old car you need to change the metro engine mounts to mini ones. If you're doing this yourself I would rent or hire an engine hoist rather than struggle. Yes, a five-speed box would have to wait another ten years until the K-Series powered Rover Metro.Ĭhunky alloy wheels, red seatbelts and some suitably loud graphics completed the package and the MG remained a popular model in the range right until the end.īy then it had been joined by the Metro Turbo – also an MG model – and of course, the Maestro and Montego-based MG cars.Īnyone who has ever driven an MG Metro will remember it being a fun car to chuck about, although along with that came a fair amount of welding work – which along with the cars being robbed of their engines by classic Mini owners explains why the Metro in all its guises is such a rare sight today and especially the MG versions.Check out Keith Calver's tech tips for the full story on MiniSpares website - Technical articles, or the article in Mini Magazine. The 1275cc A-Series was treated to a Cooper-like cylinder head, different cam and twin carbs, the 72 bhp result being not quite a GTI contender but certainly fast enough to be fun and capable of just over the ton at 103 mph flat-out… with the engine screaming in fourth. Launched in May 1982, the MG Metro used the same recipe which had made the Mini Cooper such a winner – no surprise considering the Metro was essentially a squared-off Mini under the skin. Indeed, the Cooper Metro was later renamed the Monaco. By then of course the Midget and MGB had been axed, so a performance Metro was an ideal way of keeping the MG flame alive. In July 1981, BL admitted it was working on an in-house go-faster Metro but it wasn’t to bear the Cooper badge. Janspeed, Turbo Technics, Wood and Pickett and even John Cooper Garages all produced enticing go-faster Metros with period alloys, wild cams and twin carbs. Initial production concentrated on shifting the bread-and-butter models although at launch several aftermarket tuners were invited to work their magic on early production examples. On this page, you will find all the key specs for the Metro from overall fuel efficiency in MPG and its top speed in MPH, to running costs, dimensions, data and lots more. The ‘British car to beat the world’ was launched in October 1980 to great acclaim and it really was a make-or-break car for the struggling BL – or rather, Austin Rover as it would become. 1.4 16V GTi 3d Owner Reviews Specs Available new from: May 1990 - November 1992 Rover Metro (90-95) Scroll down for the full details of the Rover Metro 1990 right here. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |